Cara Delevingne for Yves Saint Laurent Beauty Faux Cils Babydoll S/S 2013
WWD reports that Yves Saint Laurent will formally announce the departure of Pilati on Tuesday, and even though it hasn’t yet been confirmed by YSL or the designer himself, Slimane will join the fashion house.
Pilati has been with Yves Saint Laurent since 2004, but his relationship with the house was notoriously contentious. Critical reception of his collections wavered from season to season, and Saint Laurent himself once told a reporter that Pilati’s work was inconsistent: “Some of what he does is good. Some of it is not so good.”
Slimane is stepping in to YSL with no previous experience designing womenswear, but his tenure at Dior Homme, from 2000 to 2007, was critically acclaimed. Slimane was the first menswear designer to be recognized with CFDA’s award for International Designer, and a true golden boy in the eyes of top fashion bigwigs like Karl Lagerfeld.
“It began with a dark green and black swing coat, setting the scene for a rich, autumnal palette spanning indigo and purple, dark blue, grey and black, interrupted by a cool mint, cream brocades, sheer white silk and some gorgeous ornate prints of pink and grey or blue and purple for wide, silky palazzo pants or one elegant all-in-one.
Silk blouses came backless and halterneck or with full backs and tucked into organza gym slips or silk tapered trousers. A bubblegum pink brocade waistcoat with a wide peplum was slightly more lighthearted, while a sheer black cocktail dress smothered in navy chiffon flowers at the back had a younger appeal and the two final black dresses embellished in gold were old style YSL fabulous. Pearl embellished belts and more gold capped shoes had a glorious old Hollywood feel about them too.
Pilati’s a popular man in fashion circles and we’d be sorry to see him go – but with a fashion world ever hungry for the new and next story, we can’t help thinking about who might do a different job at YSL and how they might do it.”