Emilio Pucci MFW Spring 2015
Peter Dundas didn’t need to design a Seventies-inspired collection to signal that his heart belongs to the decade. Everything about him — the curls, the cool glasses, his rock ’n’ roll attire — already makes the point. “I held a grudge against my parents that I wasn’t an adult in the 1970s to actually have fun then,” the designer said backstage before the show. “It just feels right again now.”
Dundas couldn’t enjoy it then, but he sure did for spring. Channeling the vibe seen across Milan runways — one that’s always at the core of Pucci in some way — he took a boho-luxe, pre-disco-days approach that was inspired by music-poster art of the time. The silhouettes were a contrast of lean and languid: skinny suits and sportswear on one end, maxidresses on the other, all rendered in what he referred to as a sunset-inspired palette.
The workmanship was exquisite, if slightly excessive at times. The fringed poncho and suit with elaborate floral embroidery and taut minidress in beaded crochet added a heavy touch to the lineup. In contrast, the colorful tie-dye patterns achieved the opposite, particularly the airy chiffon dresses with which he ended the show. They were psychedelic, but, more importantly, they were also a lot of fun. | via WWD