ZUHAIR MURAD HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2014
"By one count, Zuhair Murad’s wedding dress alone bloomed with upwards of 25,000 floral appliqués. The mystical garden segment of his collection overall contained a multitude of camellias, roses, peonies, gentian, and more, all shimmering atop gowns, jumpsuits, and cocktail frocks. He added fauna to complement the flora: Black sequins delineated a zebra print, and feathers crept up the neck of a gauzy halter gown. Embroidery on a full-length white caftan revealed a python print down the body and panther spots along the sleeves.
Outside his garden, a grouping of daywear looks featured ivory suiting—pencil skirts, trousers, open jackets—all fronted in a double row of gold buttons. The look was his Parisian ideal, Murad explained before the show. Then he singled out a New Look-style outfit in guipure lace as his synthesis of modern femininity. But if any pieces in the collection adhered to that description, they were the ones that showed off the upper back, their fabric scooped out or cross-strapped like swimsuits.” │ via Style.
VALENTINO HAUTE COUTURE S/S 2014
"The set was specially commissioned and executed in partnership with the Rome Opera House, depicting everything from garden flowers to cloudy skies.
Inspiration came from nature then - from the ever more complex nature of femininity - and from the world more broadly. At times this seemed fragile and ephemeral - a swarm of butterflies alighting on a cape - at others fierce, if always with lightness at play - lions, snakes and even gorillas appearing as intarsia on coats.
The collection played off the apparently simple, even austere, against the magnificently ornamental too. Oversized coats and dresses in earthy shades looked almost seamless such was their lack of embellishment. They rubbed shoulders with the most elaborate black gown densely covered with inky silk flowers.
'The woman is always at the center,' read the show notes. 'She is a multi-faceted and elusive figure dressed in ever-changing guises…' She is also quite possibly in possession of quite the finest wardrobe money can buy.” │ via Grazia.