Giorgio Armani F/W 12.13 Milan via Vogue.

“”The modern woman loves to dress in androgynous and masculine clothes, yet she doesn’t want to sacrifice feminine subtlety and lightness,” read the notes which served as a very fitting prelude to the masculine tailoring that begun the collection (boy scout shorts came later too).

The models had something of a seductive gangster and a Bugsy Malone edge about them with jaunty wide-brimmed hats perched at an angle - and they flashed a knowing smile and glance to the audience as they made their entrance.

Then came shocks of pink and raspberry and orange - and it was quite the shock. We’re used to seeing grey and blue and darker, subdued tones from Armani for he is a designer for whom being classic is at his heart.

On tunic tops or as dramatic furs casually lopped over the shoulders, or fed into the construction of another by strand formation, it was lovely to see these corals at work and made for an energetic change of pace.

And pace was certainly a theme of the collection - as a change of colour and scenery at the entrance of the catwalk signalled a new section of the show, moving into swingy and circular A-lines on skirts and dresses and coats. “Slender not snug,” described the notes - again very aptly.

There was something of a rebel attitude in there too - albeit one you might have to work a bit at finding. But the shoes - the zebra stripe pointed numbers - were the giveaway.

Next came the shiny-shiny section, to which the simplicity of the rest of the collection remained intact - almost as though he had saved his most elaborate eveningwear for his Privé collection. Again peach and coral, but as sequins and beads and on short shapes with black skirts just about on show beneath.”