Gianfranco Ferré F/W 12.13 Milan via Vogue.

““It  was really beautiful and so polished, pared-down,” said Vogue’s Lucinda Chambers after the show, highlighting the strength of the neutral colour palette – grey and oyster, blue and metal – to show off the fresh cuts. “It was effortless but beautifully put together,” she said.

Where last time it had perhaps gone too far in its play with cuts, this time the label struck the right balance of oversized lapels and collars and innovative use of zips and stylised aesthetics. Each look came complete with a pair of gloves that were held in place by zips and metal cuffs to ruche them up the arm – a shape and volume that was echoed elsewhere with sleeves and collars that were layered up to striking effect.

Waists were magnified by belted coats and the continuation of volume throughout the collection – a high collar on a poncho-cape veering off and down the side and unravelling into the rest of the garment.

Zipped-up panel minidresses had something sci-fi about them and came in silver and gold, while simpler-looking – but won’t have been to craft – evening, essentially, cocktail dresses boasted durable zips down their sides.

The show notes told us that Piaggi and Citron “follow their vision of the garment as a structure in movement, forging an androgyny that, freed from all rigidity, is totally sensual”. Their mission seemed to be accomplished.”