Les Copains MFW Spring 2015
Stefania Bandiera, the latest designer to try her hand at Les Copains, got into the swing of things with an array of flaring jackets, tops and sweaters. They headlined a spring collection that skewed dressy, and occasionally felt tricky.
These loose and flaring tops varied in surface texture, from geometric patterns and jungle leaves that appeared as intarsia patterns on mesh knits all the way through to sparkly sequined jackets. Wide pants or flaring shorts finished off the looks.
There were sporty touches like drawstrings on cocooning evening popovers, and shirttails jutting out from jumpsuits bifurcated at the back.
Bandiera’s efforts to ignite the brand extended to an ambient scent concocted with Florentine perfumer Dr. Vranjes that wafted through the gilded salons of Palazzo Clerici. | via WWD
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Tod’s MFW Spring 2015
For its spring show, Tod’s re-created a pristinely manicured Italian garden of box hedges, sculpted topiaries and chalky white pebbles, the kind of outdoor space that’s beautifully designed but a destination for relaxation.
A crisp take on “sophisticated sport,” according to the press notes, the lineup featured tidy, tailored shapes in a fresh, pleasing palette of white, ivory, muted lavender and emerald green with a major focus on the house’s bread and butter, leather. It’s a material fundamental to Tod’s identity and thus crucial to reflect in the clothes, but there are challenges when it comes to ready-to-wear design, particularly in terms of weight and structure. Some of the collection was just too heavy and stiff; whether a technique worked depended on the garment. While expertly crafted, a patchwork wrap skirt was so thick it couldn’t move, but the same technique gave a classic bomber a modern, artisanal touch. The spiffiest, sportiest of the mix were paper-thin, perforated A-line tank dresses — easy in cut, advanced in technical execution and pretty with floral inlays. | via WWD